Group Rostokfrom seed to sprout: a guide to seeds and seedlings

An independent guide to seeds and seedlings. Not affiliated with the former website or companies on this domain; we do not sell seeds, seedlings or fertilisers.

Practical

Practical articles

The first article in this section is about seedlings on an ordinary city windowsill. Many people start out full of enthusiasm, only to find a few weeks later thin, pale stems that topple at the slightest touch. Usually the problem is not the seeds or the compost but the balance of light, warmth and water. Below are the steps from sowing to planting out that help you strike that balance. For exact timings for each crop, check the seed packet: they depend on the plant and on your region.

Seedlings on a windowsill are almost always short of light and almost never short of warmth. Remember just that, and you will avoid most mistakes.

— Editor's note

Before you start

  • You have seed packets with clear sowing and planting-out times to hand, and you have read them before starting.
  • You have containers with drainage holes and a tray to stand them in.
  • You have chosen the brightest window in your home or thought about a grow light in advance.
  • You have fresh, light seed compost rather than soil from an old flowerpot.
  • You have worked out where the plants will live after pricking out, when they will need more space.

  1. Work out when to sow

    Count back from your expected planting-out date by the growing time for seedlings given on the packet. Sowing too early is a common cause of overgrown, weakened seedlings, so there is no need to rush.

    Hypothetical example: the packet gives a growing time for seedlings, and in your region plants are usually set out after the last frosts. You mark the sowing date in your calendar by counting that time back.

  2. Prepare containers and compost

    Fill the containers with moistened compost, firm it lightly and level the surface. The compost should be damp like a wrung-out sponge, but not wet. If you treat the compost or seeds with any product, follow the manufacturer's instructions strictly.

    Hypothetical example: you moisten the compost in a separate bowl and squeeze a handful in your fist — no drops run out, and the lump crumbles when pressed lightly. That means the moisture is right.

  3. Sow the seeds

    Sowing depth depends on seed size: small seeds are sown almost on the surface, larger ones go deeper. Some seeds need light to germinate, others need darkness; this is usually stated on the packet. Cover the sowings with film or a lid so the compost does not dry out.

    Hypothetical example: you scatter small seeds on the surface and press them in lightly, push larger ones into small holes, and label each container with the name and date.

  4. Give light as soon as seedlings appear

    As soon as the first loops of seedlings appear, remove the cover and move the containers to the brightest spot. Too little light in these days makes the stems stretch. If your window is dark, a grow light helps more than any other measure.

    Hypothetical example: in the morning you spot the first seedlings, take off the film and move the container from a warm shelf to the window, where there is more light and the air is a little cooler.

  5. Water in moderation

    Water when the top layer of compost has dried, using water that has stood to reach room temperature. Excess water should drain into the tray rather than sit around the roots. Watering from below via the tray helps avoid washing compost away from thin stems.

    Hypothetical example: before watering you touch the compost with your finger. It is dry on top and slightly damp further down — you pour water into the tray and tip away what is left once the compost has soaked it up.

  6. Prick out the seedlings

    Pricking out means moving seedlings from a shared container into individual ones, usually once the first true leaves appear. Hold the plant by a leaf, not the stem, and set it as deep as is recommended for that crop. Some plants dislike being transplanted and are better sown straight into individual containers.

    Hypothetical example: the seedlings have their first true leaves, which look different from the seed leaves. You gently lift each seedling with a small spatula and move it into its own pot.

  7. Harden off before planting out

    Hardening off means gradually getting seedlings used to outdoor conditions: sun, wind and cool air. Start with short outings to a sheltered spot on the balcony or in the garden and increase the time gradually. Moving plants straight into full sun can scorch their leaves.

    Hypothetical example: on a calm, warm day you put the seedlings out in the shade on the balcony for a short while, leave them longer the next day, and only then move them into the sun.

  8. Plant out in the final spot

    Plant out when the weather in your region has settled and the soil has warmed up. Water the plants well beforehand so the root ball does not fall apart, and choose an overcast day or an evening for planting. Afterwards, note down what you planted and when.

    Hypothetical example: in the evening you plant out the hardened-off seedlings, water them and write in your notebook the sowing date, the planting-out date and notes on how things went.

Common mistakes

  • Sowing too early and keeping seedlings on the windowsill longer than needed
  • Leaving seedlings covered and warm after the first loops appear
  • Putting containers on a dark window without adding a grow light
  • Watering on a schedule rather than by how the compost feels, and leaving water in the tray
  • Holding a seedling by its thin stem when pricking out
  • Moving seedlings straight into full sun without hardening them off
  • Using treatment products without instructions or exceeding the manufacturer's recommendations

Alternatives

  • If windowsill space is limited, some crops can be sown directly outdoors at the right time without raising seedlings.
  • If your window is dark and you have no grow light, start with plants that need less light, such as some culinary herbs or microgreens.
  • If your first attempt did not work out, try the next sowing in fewer containers so it is easier to keep an eye on each one.

Results checklist

  • The sowing date is worked out back from the planting-out date using the time on the packet
  • The compost is fresh and moderately damp, and the containers have drainage holes
  • The seeds are sown at the right depth and the containers are labelled
  • After germination the cover is off and the plants stand in a bright spot
  • Watering happens once the compost dries, with no water left standing in the tray
  • Pricking out was done gently, holding the leaves
  • Seedlings were gradually hardened off before going outside
  • Planting out and sowing are recorded in a notebook

Article catalogue for English-speaking readers

This section will feature standalone practical articles written for English-speaking gardeners, whether you grow on a city windowsill, a balcony, a back garden or an allotment plot: choosing and storing seeds, sprouting, seedlings, microgreens, culinary herbs and houseplants from seed. Each article explains a general principle and the steps to follow rather than promoting particular products.

Topics our editors are planning

  • Starting seeds indoors in late winter when daylight is short
  • Sowing in a cool, damp spring: keeping seeds from rotting before they come up
  • Hardening off seedlings on a windy balcony or exposed allotment
  • Saving and storing your own seeds through a humid winter

Editorial rules

  • Articles in this catalogue are written separately for each language version and are not translations.
  • Some articles link to third-party websites, including gaming services; we do not control their content, prices or terms.
  • We do not publish advertising for seeds, fertilisers or shops, rankings, prices or reviews.
  • Questions

    Short answers about seeds and germination, seedlings, microgreens, herbs and houseplants.

  • Reference

    A beginner gardener's glossary: seeds, seedlings and care in plain words.

  • Collections

    Reading paths: your first sowing, a windowsill garden, and what to do when things go wrong.

Sources

  • Plant physiology textbooks and reference books
  • Botanical gardens' guidance for amateur growers

Information is current as of the date of preparation. Sowing and planting-out dates depend on your region, the weather in a given year, how much light your window gets and the temperature in your home, so go by your own conditions and the instructions on the seed packet. This guide explains general principles and is no substitute for advice from an agronomist or a botanical garden specialist.